Passing the Gateway of India, famous as the place the British came through in their colonial quest of India, we boarded a boat for the Elephanta Caves, a UNESCO world heritage site. After reaching shore, we take a small, colorful train to the base of the island. Climbing up two-hundred steps, with merchants hawking their wares in tents on either side, we reach the cave entrance, with massive, sculpted pillars.
Inside, is an awe-inspiring temple to Shiva, with nine rock-cut murals depicting Lord Shiva the Destroyer, his wife Parvati (goddess of love, fertility, and devotion), his son Ganesh (god of wisdom and remover of obstacles), as well as other deities. Looking closely into the portraits, one can see the gods and goddess’s vehicles, be they swans, tigers, bulls, or elephants.
Sculptures showcase scenes like the wedding of Shiva and Parvati, with an assemblage of attendants, sages, nymphs, vidyadharas, and divinities looking on. Another shows Shiva slaying Andhaka, an evil lord who tries to abduct Parvati.
The most breathtaking of all the murals is the carving of the three heads of Shiva. This is the Trimurti, where Shiva is depicted as creator, protector, and destroyer. One face(creator) has a happy expression and feminine features like beautiful ringlets and a pearl-strung hat, holding a lotus flower. The opposite face (destroyer) is fierce, ready to engulf the world in flame. The middle face (protector) has a serene expression, holding a coconut, and represents harmony in the universe.
The cave, lined with massive carved stone pillars, is open on three sides, producing natural light that falls gracefully on smooth giant faces and figures. Lingums, the phallic symbol of Shiva, sit inside little chambers around the caves. Once a year, on Shiva’s birthday, 50,000 people make their way to the Elephanta Caves to worship. But for the rest of the time, it remains a protected monument and UNESCO World Heritage Site, attracting tourists from around the globe to see its wonders. Unfortunately, many of the sculptures are damaged, arms and legs shot off during use as targeting practice by the Portuguese in 1534, yet still remains one of the greatest artistic wonders in Indian history.
As I make my way down, langur monkeys, donkeys and dogs wander the roads below the caves, and I sip a cool mango lassi in the shade at the bottom, watching white cows ample along peacefully. There is an enchantment to this island, one steeped in the histories of long ago. We take our ferry back, seagulls escorting us.
