Étude: An Edible Symphony

“Food is music to the body; music is food to the heart.”—Gregory David Roberts 

We had the most magnificent meal at the Michelin Star restaurant Étude—and it was 100% vegan! The courses, called Symphony, were inspired by Chopin’s études for the piano:

garden pea soup with kiwi and wood sorrel
Garden pea soup with kiwi and wood sorrel
White asparagus and strawberries from Lyon
White asparagus and strawberries from Lyon
Leeks stuffed with an Iranian saffron cream and kumquats
Leeks stuffed with an Iranian saffron cream and kumquats
fried fennel with turnips and thyme,
Fried fennel with turnips and thyme

 

green asparagus risotto with a sauce of spring onions
Green asparagus risotto with a sauce of spring onions

What I savored most was the asparagus! Spring is asparagus season, and thick bundles of green and white tender stalks are seen at every farmer’s market and on the menu of restaurants. This succulent feast is a tribute to seasonal vegetables, fruits, and herbs, sourced daily from local producers. Flavoring the dishes are virgin almond, walnut, hazelnut and pistachio oils, in substitute of dairy. We were even served a peanut brioche with a creamy emulsion of olive oil and cardamom, instead of butter!

Parsnip chips on a bed of walnuts
Parsnip chips on a bed of walnuts
rhubarb from Provence and honeycomb with silver leaf
Rhubarb from Provence and honeycomb with chocolate and silver leaf
Chocolate coffee gelée with caramel
Chocolate coffee gelée with caramel
French vanilla vegan ice cream
French vanilla vegan ice cream
mint cookies with whipped hazelnut
Mint cookies with whipped hazelnut
Our crowning dessert: glorious bourbon-soaked cherries with sugared glass and lychee pearls

The courses paired perfectly with Champagne from the famous wine region. Michelin inspectors sum up the feast exquisitely: “Nourished by his meetings with small-scale producers, by the discovery of ingredients from afar—pepper from Taiwan with citrus notes, Iranian berries—the chef, Keisuke Yamagishi, cooks here like a tightrope walker, offering set menus named ‘Symphonie,’ ‘Ballade,’ ‘Prélude’ in homage to Chopin. Each dish is a masterclass in harmony.”

Bon appétit!

Bon appétit!